Phew. I'm seated, in my assigned seat...15 minutes after getting to the airport. at 5:00 pm, I was told that my 7:30 flight was cancelled and instead I was put on a flight leaving at 5:55. If I didn't make that flight, I would be stuck in LA and my friends would have to wait for me in San Jose, Costa Rica. What a start to a 5 week trip!

After we all gathered at the San Jose airport (which is actually in Alajuela) in the following 36 hours after I left Seattle, we were on a bus and headed to our first holiday destination, Quepos. Here, we had plans to stay with one of my traveling companions' uncle, an expat willing to host 4 ladies for a week and half at his Costa Rican mansion, accessible to few through a series of gates. He welcomed us with Imperial (one of two Costa Rican beers), pizza, and his two dogs as we watched the sun set over the Pacific ocean from rocking chairs on his upstairs balcony. Finally...together and not moving and drinking a beer with a view. Quepos--land of pirate taxis, prostitutes, beautiful and tourist-filled beaches, 2 for 1 happy hour--turned out to be a perfect place for us to relax, play cards, make a plan, cook together, ride horses to a waterfall, ride someone else's motorcycle, go to the doctor, get acquainted with being in a foreign country, catch some big-ass fish, and get A LOT of free drinks. We were amazed by the teenagers who could move their hips to Salsa music, the monkeys, the sloths, the price of the national park entrance, how nothing dries if it gets wet, the 2 for 1, 2 at once happy hour, and the fear of over-drafting every time we took out 150,000 colones from an ATM.

After 10 days of general relaxation and vacation, we decided to make our way toward Drake Bay, where we had a free place to stay with the parents of a friend of a friend/future boss/complete stranger (to some of us). On the way, we stopped at a surfer town full of too many cool vibes, where the surf is good and people go to sleep at 8, so they can get up to shred on the first waves. It was here, I think, that we began being led by many a good-natured Costa Rican man, all too willing to help four young, white ladies on to each new destination. The expat in Quepos constantly hooked us up with deals. Here, in Dominical, we met Andre who taught us the ways of Costa Rican pop music, Costa Rican pizza, and the general surfer vibe. We left the next morning before the sun rose, and the Tico men ushered us to where we were supposed to go. On the way to Drake Bay, we waited for several hours in Sierpe for a water Taxi that would take us through the mangroves and onto our destination. It was here where we lost our minds waiting in the hot sun for hours, and where I nearly died when a branch about me broke off the tree and would have landed on my head were it not for my killer instincts. With a new appreciation for my life, we arrived in the magical, special place, met by our new host on the beach.

Drake is a small, rural town, where 5 year old boys ride a horse to the mini super market and tie it up outside, where there is one pick-up truck that takes the one road. Here we were shown to our guest house with beds, sheets, warm (or cold) showers, a kitchen, a washing machine, and all thanks be to the arid god, a dryer. In Drake, we walked on beaches, jumped off of rope bridges into crocodile-filled rivers that change with the tides, found a magical ping-pong table, celebrated American Thanksgiving with bacon and an eight dollar bag of Cheetos, kayaked in the wide open ocean, drank boozy smoothies, caught a cold, played hilarious drinking games, and meet a new spirit guide. Carlos became our main man, and we became his 4 ladies whom he showed around, healed, guided, and made phone calls for. He took us for a night swim, when the moon was low and the waves came alive with bio-luminescence, tiny plankton glowing with every movement we made. He taught us to make fresh lemongrass, ginger tea to heal our colds, and took us for a hike/waterfall-jumping/ wear-your-lifejacket-like-a-diaper floating tour down a river into the ocean. We ate cacao fruit off of trees and no-named citrus fruits from everywhere. I discovered a true passion of mine is finding coconuts on the beach and using my pocket knife to open it and drink the juice and eat the meat and share it with local, hungry dogs and my friends.

At this point in our trip, with every swim in the ocean, walk on the beach or in the woods, or nap in a hammock, I could feel the stress and disappointment of the year dripping away. It felt like happiness was slowly returning and a version of myself that I like much more than the self I have been for a while. Thanks to the ocean--the point at which time and eternity intersect--a force to be reckoned with.

Next stop, Mount Chirripo! I had spent quite a bit of time getting paperwork and money in the right place in order to go on a hike, the tallest peak in Costa Rica, nonetheless. We were ushered to San Isidro de General/ Perez Zeledon(thanks to our spirit-guide, Carlos), and eventually made our way to one of two San Gerardos in this 17,000 square mile country. We were dropped off from the school bus full of women and teenage lovebirds at the last stop up, next to the soccer field where the bus would park until it left the next morning. We were greeted by an unpleasant couple from Quebec telling us "There's no room in the inn." Luckily, we ignored them and made the 2 kilometer trek up to Casa Mariposa (butterfly house), a beautiful hostel where we would spend the next 5 days (minus the 2 where we were hiking). Although we came here for the mountain, we quickly fell in love with this mountain town. We walked in the crisp air to a chilly swimming hole, to a "secret garden," a trout farm, a chocolatier, a cheese maker, waterfalls, and lovely everything. The hostel was cozy, gave us 2 fleece blankets for the chilly nights, clean, coffee at 5 am everyday,and full of interesting outdoorsy travelers. The hike up the mountain went smoothly. I was anxious to get up high, and it was totally worth it. We left the hiker's lodge at 3 am, donned all of our clothes, watched a beautiful alpine lightning storm from afar, and made it up to the summit in time to witness the daily ceremony of the sun slowly making its way up from the east. When we had all our photos taken, the surprise cake eaten, and our fingers were thoroughly numb, we hiked down in the magic light of dawn, stopping at the lodge for a warming cup of coffee before we took our time going back down through the cloud forest where oak trees and bamboo grow side by side. We rested and enjoyed Casa Mariposa for another day before heading to our next destination, Monteverde.

We had heard about Monteverde from a friend and from everyone we had met. We arrive during the Festival de la Luz, welcomed by parades and college-like foreigners partying. Our spirits got a little low here, as we all were in need of time away from each other, and we were stuck inside of a cloud...literally. I wish I could say I liked being in the cloud forest, but honestly, it got pretty stuffy in there. The nature reserves were beautiful and fun to hike around. We went to the Quaker meeting, and I was reminded of some great parts of my religious upbringing. I felt totally peaceful and open to the musings of the universe after sitting in silence for an hour. On one of my traveling companion's birthday, we went out to breakfast, went on a zip line canopy tour (17 ziplines, one of them is 1 km long!), ate burritos, and watched the sun set with a bottle of champagne.

To leave Monteverde, we got on a bus, whose driver hated us from the start, and proceeded down the curvy dirt road. Just about the time I began to feel nauseous, the percentage of the dirt overcame the oxygen in the bus and the driver turned on Latin carnival music. Just barely keeping my breakfast down, we got on an hour and half long ferry across the open ocean. Our arrival in the beautiful beach town called Montezuma (Montefuma, to some) could not have been more welcomed. We had reached an oasis where we could and would spend the next 10 days.

In Montezuma, our biggest decision each day was to get up at 5 and walk down to the beach for sunrise or just to watch it from our beds, wake up slow, sipping coffee while watching the birds and howler monkeys nearby and the tide come in afar. In Montezuma, you go to yoga, eat well, sit on the beach, go to the waterfall, swim in salt water, swim in fresh water, sit outside at all hours of the day, and you feel better when you leave. We met travelers who glow, awash with joy and relaxation, basking in each moment, at the whims of the universe. When it was time to leave, I felt excited to test out my happiness in my day to day life, to see if it could hold up despite gray skies and cold weather. I had made a list of things I'd like to accomplish and be, feeling motivated by traveling and sunshine.


Anyway, I'm home now. And I'm still walking on beaches, just wearing boots, and a wool coat and hat when I do. I'm inspired by the life of a traveler, taking note of the beauty in each day, enjoying the moments.